Goodbye to "Bunda"

I should explain... I had stumbled across the word "bunda" while researching Brazil online months ago. It sounded like a cute way to reference the butt, so I had been using it in Rio. Until my crew mentioned it was a rather crude word (cue Tatyana blushing!). Sort of like 'ass', I supposed. Though I still like the word, I was told that "bum bum" (pronounced boom-boom) is a more playful and accepted way of referencing the mighty tush.

I was right, I didn't sleep. I tossed and turned... my brain was on hyperdrive, and I couldn't stop replaying what had already happened and imagining how the last few hours would unfold...

But the sun was out again and I was ready to hit the beach!

We had a mini-crew with us this morning as we headed for Copacabana. This is the life, I tell you. While the entire city was back to business as usual for the first time in weeks, there were still a lot of locals at the beach. Lolo mentioned to me that it wasn't uncommon for people to grab the morning paper and start their day on the beach.... oh my god, how heavenly! I can only imagine the screenplays I'd write with Ipanema as my vista....

And this, my friends, is the reason that Brazil is so famous. It's all true what they say about the bronzed women and bootys.... I was so moved to take this snap... what a booty!

So I got myself together, pulled on a cute tanga (traditional beach cover-up) over my new Brazilian bikini (no, I didn't have the guts to buy a total thong bottom, but that's also an urban legend -- most women really wear a hybrid between a normal brief bottom and a thong) and tried to ignore the people interested in observing our activities....and there were plenty. This will be the last scene of the film, so I was feeling a bit anxious to make it good.... I guess we'll see when the final product is ready! But the water was sparkling with early morning sunlight.... the sky was endless azure and the sun really did melt a big chunk of my inhibitions away in moments....

The sun was hot, limiting how many takes we could pull off... and as a final treat, Mark and I jumped into the ocean with Lolo! It had been 5 years since I'd swam in the ocean... and the familiar salty feeling was amazing.

It was 10:30 in the morning. And yes, I did indulge in a caipirinha. The last authentic one I'd have, so I justified it.



Cheers to a job well done for the foreigners at Copacabana Beach!!

Bikinis and Sand-bootys

I woke up the next morning to be whisked off to a local mall by our Fixer. We visited a grocery store first for some fresh acai juice. Just peering around the produce section, I was in AWE at the fruit. Papayas the size of small watermelons, mangoes, cute, tiny South American bananas... and of course tons of passion fruit. How can one NOT be healthy with this much exotic fruit available and so cheaply?

Next, we ventured into the Rio Sul shopping centre. My efficient producer grabbed my hand and led me to a small handful of her favourite bikini shops (I couldn't get over how many there were -- far more than clothing stores for sure), told me we were running on a tight schedule today, and left me to try on and buy a Brazilian-style bikini. I've had stressful situations before, that's for sure. But this one was completely unexpected.... and incomparable to anything I had done. I have been working on this film in part because of my own body confidence issues.... and being in Brazil was supposed to boost my confidence, or at least that was the hope. But as I tried to select a bikini (they sell tops and bottoms separately, why isn't that the norm everywhere in the world?), in tiny little flourescently lit fitting rooms with barely enough room to look over my shoulder in the mirror at my butt in, and sales associates who were Brazilian-beauties with minimal English skills who kept checking in on me.... the anxiety returned. I had to think back to the day prior when I had seen women of all shapes and sizes on the beach in very tiny bikinis.... to rationalize why the bottoms were tiny little triangles.... I very nearly had a bit of a breakdown in the first store.... and then I had a moment... and just stopped being so hard on myself.

To their credit, bikinis might be mighty skimpy in Rio, but they are well-crafted like nothing I've ever seen before. Some that I picked up were almost too beautiful for just the beach -- embellishments, stones, ribbons, embroidery.... Not one to flash my goods on the beach, I ended up picking a very cute, simple style with a little bit of flair to remind me of Brazil... to hopefully wear with confidence... one day. :)

As I drooled over all of the amazing (and extremely affordable!) fashion in the windows, I cried a little inside because I knew I'd have no time to check them out. Maybe next time...

Oh, I never really mentioned our hotel. Work booked us into the Mercure Botafogo. It was the least pricey of the Mercure chain.... as it wasn't a "beachfront" property... but nice just the same. The coolest thing was how energy-efficient it was. Fans in the elevator wouldn't turn on unless sensors let them know someone had stepped into it. Same with the hallway lights.... and in order to get the lights, AC and tv working in the room, you had to put your room card in the slot! So as to prevent wastage of these things operating all day long....

The room was a suite, complete with a kitchen, and European style bathroom (no tub!). My only qualm was the army of teeny ants that took up residence with me. They were EVERYWHERE. And seemed to take a liking to my toiletries.... not fun. But all in all, I'd stay there again. Very affordable, safe location, and not too far from amenities.

Our crew met up and we drive out to the beach for our next shoot.

So I can't say there's ever really time for sightseeing on this production, unless it's THIS sort of sight-seeing....

These amazing sand sculptures are created by artists along Copacabana beach. Check them out -- maybe I've been sheltered, but I don't believe I've ever seen the female form sculpted from sand. How PERFECT for my film! (Thanks, Brad for the tip!)

Of course, for the traditionalists, there was this amazing castle/palace... Incredible!!

Of course, as we get ready to film a scene on the beach, the clouds start to roll in. Didn't even occur to me that it might rain mid-Summer in Rio. And, of course, the minute we had our gear set up for filming, the droplets started. We took shelter in the production van... and thankfully the rain sort of held off. But the beaches remained deserted, which was a bit of a 'bummer'.




My Brazilian "Booty Crew"! I have to hand it to the team... despite Lolo being the only one with English fluency, the gang was such a pleasure to work with. It was their light-hearted vibe that made this whirlwind trip so much more bearable! After only a couple of days, I was already starting to relax... which is a bizarre feeling during shooting. It's something intoxicating about the environment, the pace, the air, the people. You just can't continue your stress-case, fast-paced persona in Rio.

Last dinner in Rio. Ok, so we hadn't had enough of the meat or the ambiance. So we went for Brazilian steakhouse, AGAIN. And I continued my love-affair with caipirinhas....

They have a KEG of cachaca with complimentary shots as you walk into the restaurant.... I declined. Not on an empty stomach... I've learned this over the years....

The caipirinhas came afterwards, as you can see....

I love nothing more than the final meal after a block of shooting days.... it's become a bit of a tradition. I got to know the team a bit better, including our soundman's lovely assistant (and daughter!) Joanna and our PA (also filmmaker and Executive Producer in the Brazilian film scene) Tiago.

Despite my fatigue, I wanted to go out and samba the night away... But I was informed, after a non-stop party for the people of Rio for more than 2 weeks of Carnival, nothing was really open! Again, I remind my lovely readers that my travels really are about work! It was probably for the best, as we had decided to shoot one last and hopefully sun-shiney scene) early the next morning... to make up for the clouds today.

Only a few more hours left in Rio.... I wondered if I'd be able to sleep....

A Full Day in Brazil

We were going to be cramming a LOT into our 2 1/2 days, 3 nights trip to Rio de Janeiro...

The next morning, we headed up Corcovado to see Christ the Redeemer, the most famous landmark in Rio. There is a tram that goes to the top, but with our large crew, it was better to drive. I've never been chauffered so much in my life as I was on this trip. Rio drivers are NUTS as well....

You can see everyone in our crew van craning their heads to check out the latest traffic jam... which in this case, was the parking lot nightmare at the top of the mountain.

It was a pretty and quick drive up.... and the sun was hot as we climbed the remaining stairs to the statue.

I was told Cariocas like to spend the weekend walking up to the top, picnic-ing and then walking back down!

I had to fight my way through the throngs of people to check out the amazing view.



And my PA, Tiago, insisted I do the "classic pose"....

The breeze was amazing and I spent a long time just gazing out at the city and the ocean. We had the time to spare because Lolo was busy negotiating with the authorities.... apparently the landmark had recently come under the authority of the Catholic Church and film crews had to apply for permission, something that no one on our crew had been aware of. Ah, the challenges of filming "reality".

Once we got back, we headed to the Ipanema 'hippie' market to check out some local goods. As Mark grabbed a walking shot, you can see that our security man was never far behind...

And moments later, I fell in love! (those who know me will know that I'm being overdramatic). He was playing a traditional instrument common to Capoeira (I don't know what it's called). And he was stunning! I think it was the muscles that did it for me.... Anyhow, back on topic....


So THIS is what Brazilian men look like.....

Not bad, not bad at all... :)

I also got my first peek at the famous "Brazilian bikinis". Let's just say that they were VERY small, and I wasn't convinced that everyone did in fact wear them this small. But I was soon going to find out...

Next, we went to the famous Ipanema beach. It was Sunday and the last day before most people would be back to work after Carnival. So the beach was PACKED! And yes, there were tushies aplenty. It was an endless sea of booty! And really, there were booties of all sizes, but all fully on display in very small bikini bottoms. Just sitting on that crowded beach and watching how ininhibitedly the women carried on, I felt my own anxieties begin to dissipate. It was incredible.... This was a culture of women that new how to flaunt it's best "asset". Oh yes, and the men did too -- I don't think I saw a single male bum-bum in surfer shorts! What a delightful afternoon of eye candy!

(Mark, inspired by the booty on the beach)

Our crew set up camp on the beach. And I got to enjoy some coconut water straight out of the coconut and some fried cheese on a stick (curious beach-food, but definitely yummy!)

On Ipanema beach, when the sun sets, the beachgoers always clap. Just thinking about this gives me shivers! It's a beautiful guesture. And when I witnessed the beauty of the sun over the water, I couldn't help but join in.



It was absolutely breathtaking and inspiring.

But it was time to EAT.

We went to Porcao, a Brazillian steakhouse franchise, that put all other buffet I've ever had to shame. I've never consumed so much meat in my life. And it was such a social way to eat, too!

The skewers kept coming.... and soon enough I figured out that if I wanted more, I had to flip my little round card to:

And if I was full, to:

This evening marked two "firsts" in my lifetime -- My introduction to Brazillian steakhouse-style eating and my introduction to CAPIRINHAs.... More on these tasty little devils later...

Last Day of Carnival

Several hours after we arrived in Rio, our crew stepped into THIS....


It was the final day of Carnival -- the winner's parade where the top 5 samba schools had the chance to dance and celebrate one last time. Rights for Carnival are owned by TV Globo, and because our trip was such short notice, we didn't have a permit to film inside the Sambodrome... so we joined the party going on outside. I can't really liken it to anything else... except perhaps when the Greeks won Euro 2006...

So my trusty cameraman Mark and I were joined by the Brazilian Contingent of "What A Booty!" We had been connected to a lovely woman named Lolo, who is an actress and producer in Rio. And probably one of the most fluent English-speaking women in the city, in my opinion! She was a whirlwind of energy that swept me along with her and quite frankly, is a big part of the reason I was able to keep going.... I was just PROPELLED forward!

In North America, my crew is Camera + Sound and if my producers are feeling generous and the need is there, a Production Assistant. That is the number of people you need to make a documentary. In Brazil, our crew consisted of:

- Field Producer/Fixer
- Director (ME!)
- Camera
- Sound
- Sound ASSISTANT
- Production Assistant
- Van driver
and SECURITY!

This last one blew my mind but it wasn't negotiable. It was common practice to hire a security guard for film crews in Brazil. If you weren't safe walking around with an expensive watch or digital camera, I could just imagine how tempting camera equipment would look to the less-fortunate. Our security guard was always a few paces ahead or behind, depending on the situation, and his eyes always watching for trouble (and a gun tucked under his shirt).

We also had to bribe the police to let us pass through the gridlocked streets.... a lot of this went by in a blur, with all of the commotion and back-and-forth jabbering in Portuguese.... Talk about culture shock! Less than 24 hours ago I was in Toronto and here I was, in the midst of CHAOS!!
If we were being paranoid, let me tell you what I experienced pulling out my camera to take a few snaps of the street parties near the Sambodrome. I immediately had a dozen or so eyes on me... it was surreal. Apparently only the uber-rich have digicams in Brazil.

And if people see a camera flash, they get all excited and pose, no matter what!

This one's blurry but this group of kids spotted me from far away and came over to pose for a pic!

I'm sure my eyes are popping out of my head in all of the footage... it was a zoo, people dancing everwhere, music blasting, costumes.... and it was HOT.

I had to stop for some refreshment.... here I am with the lovely Lolo.
Though I was in Brazil to discover the mystery of the booty.... I witnessed something else on this evening. Men comfortable in their sexuality. Halloween in North America means men dressed up as heros... "manly" costumes... or scary ones. But here, as many men were dressed in pink tights, dresses and rouge as women. And this was NOT a gay parade. It was incredible. Truly incredible. All about the glitz, glamour and flamboyance. Here's a man passing through in his frilly costume...

I was also amazed at how COVERED so many of the costumes were. Whereas other Carnivals, for example Toronto's Caribana, are all about skin, Rio is far more elaborate and creative. There were clowns, women in wedding dresses...full-body parrot costumes... I can't even describe what I saw. I'll have to dig out some pictures I find on the web.... I know the 'mulatas' are a big lure for Carnival (the hottest, sexiest women in Brazil who dance on the highest floats in next to nothing), but from where we were filming, all we could see were the thousands of fully-costumed revelers -- through a fence!


Our security guard was so inspired by our mission that he even tried to negotiate with the Sambodrome staff to let our cameras in.... Bless him, but they were running a tight ship that night:

Our back up plan -- squeeze our way through the free stands. It turns out that a lot of "cariocas" (native Rio dwellers) have become disillusioned with Carnival over the years as it's become more commercial and expensive. It is the neighbourhood samba schools that have built up this event with their costumes and floats, and yet, these same neighbourhoods have a hard time affording tickets to the events. So in recent years, a small section of "free" stands have been made available....



Nevertheless, I, in "bumblebee mode", made the best of this exciting evening.

And the Skol is just a prop... though I did try an amazing Churro.... it was very close to heaven, I tell you. (Notice our security guard, always just a few paces away).

By 3AM, we had had enough of the noise, pushing our way through the crowds, and the heat.

I passed out cold.

En Route to Rio

Do you like air travel in this day in age? I could write a book on it. I've actually come to a point where my journey through an airport and following of airport protocol is mechanic. But this flight to Brazil was by far the longest I had ever taken. Prior to this, my longest was to Greece -- 8 hours. Our flight to Brazil was through Air Canada, which lands in Sao Paolo and then we had to switch airports to fly to Rio. A total of about 15 hours travel time (fortunately with only a 3 hour time difference). AND, because of all of the drama with trying to get our VISAs really quickly (have you ever tried to muscle a foreign authority into doing something quicker over the phone??), we now had an itinerary that required us to fly overnite, make our connecting flight and then roll off the plane and right into the last day of Carnival festivities....

Thank goodness for sleeping pills (not mine). And thank goodness for short legs (mine).... I tell you.

In Toronto, I pleaded with the check-in staff to give me a window seat (no one to climb over me and wake me up) and they obliged! Even though when I did my electronic check-in all of the window seats were spoken for. Check-in staff really do have the power to make all sorts of things happen.... become their friend! It worked for me!

My seasoned traveler friends had suggested the following -- eat dinner on the plane, pop a sleeping pill, put on headphones with music, pull on an eyemask... and you'll wake up at your destination well rested. I couldn't afford to toss and turn, so after a meal of brown sludge (which apparently was beef, though the other brown sludge which was chicken basically looked the same), I did as I was told.... and I woke up in Brazil!

I barely remember Sao Paolo. I remember going to claim my luggage and seeing a lot of tanned skin everywhere. And it was the first time in my life I had seen so many female travellers in STILLETTOS. It was borderline ridiculous.... we're talking full-fledged party shoes. Also, there was a soccer game being broadcast at the luggage claim area, which had most of the mens' attention. This was Brazil! We found our way to the other airport, which was a loooooong airconditioned busride away. And we sampled our first Brazilian fare in the terminal. I wanted a coffee more than anything and couldnt find any iced kinds! Even in the 35 degree weather, your options were espresso or MATE -- ice tea. And of course, empanadas!! Mmmmmm.... This was the start of a feeding frenzy as I decided I had to try EVERYTHING I could while away. Once on the VARIG flight, I sampled another Brazilian original - Guarana pop. It's their national drink and tastes surprisingly like gingerale.... I also realized that I was in trouble with the minimal amount of Portuguese I knew....

So, we were cautioned against jumping into random cabs at the Rio airport, especially given our conspicious gear. We ordered a cab from inside the airport and within a half hour, were at our hotel in Botafogo. A quick shower and I might have blinked my eyes a few times... before we were rushing out the door for our first shoot!